Al Kuwaitiah  

Thursday, April 02, 2020

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Dolce & Gabbana autumn/winter 2014 at Milan Fashion Week
 
It seems that the line of beauty runs a pretty straight course after all. What looked good on Eleanor of Aquitaine, circa 1145, looked terrific on Jean Shrimpton in the 1960s and also works beautifully now. Give or take a few adaptations.
 
I'm talking about that Medieval sense of simplicity with its slightly raised waists, sweeping sleeves and gently flaring silhouette, which reoccurs periodically through fashion history, albeit in tweaked and highly romanticised versions.
 
It formed the basis of Domenico Dolce's and Stefano Gabbana's show today and… if only Eleanor had been there. She would surely have adored the woodland influences - the wool, felt or velvet owls, foxes, squirrels and wolves that were bonded onto short cape-coats, silk-brocade skirts, the jewelled pointy slippers and the crystal encrusted evening bags.
 
Did Eleanor ever cross-dress? She may well have done, given the queenly tendency back then to work some armour into their autumn statements. The Dolce version is a Sir Sparkle Alot jewelled balaclava, which certainly made an eye-catching add-on to sculpted mini dresses.
 
Once, not so long ago, one might have assumed these balaclavas were for catwalk purposes only. But the gold crowns from Dolce & Gabbana's previous shows have proved a commercial hit. Ergo, stand by.
 
This was an outstanding collection, filled with exceptionally crafted, substantial clothes - "all made in Italy", as Stefano Gabbana emphasised.
 
Partly inspired by the famous Frances Hodgson Burnett novel, it was called The Secret Garden - which gave the designers licence to have fun with all their favourite motifs. Jewelled flowers scrambled up spindly metal heeled shows; keys became a chiffon print on fluttery high-waisted chiffon dresses and a new Dolce & Gabbana bag acquired a Padlock fastening.
 
Once, not so long ago, one might have assumed these balaclavas were for catwalk purposes only. But the gold crowns from Dolce & Gabbana's previous shows have proved a commercial hit. Ergo, stand by.
 
This was an outstanding collection, filled with exceptionally crafted, substantial clothes - "all made in Italy", as Stefano Gabbana emphasised.
 
Partly inspired by the famous Frances Hodgson Burnett novel, it was called The Secret Garden - which gave the designers licence to have fun with all their favourite motifs. Jewelled flowers scrambled up spindly metal heeled shows; keys became a chiffon print on fluttery high-waisted chiffon dresses and a new Dolce & Gabbana bag acquired a Padlock fastening.
 
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